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MONEY·Julian·5 min read

Why your 401(k) target-date fund is fine, and when it is not

Target-date funds are the default for a reason — but two specific red flags mean you should override the autopilot

Written byJulian Reyes
Why your 401(k) target-date fund is fine, and when it is not
Photo by Micheile Henderson on Unsplash

Someone at a party recently told me, with real embarrassment, that his entire 401(k) was in "just the default fund." He said it the way you'd admit to still using the same toothbrush from college. I told him he was probably fine. He looked disappointed. People want their money to be complicated so their attention to it feels earned.

Here is the boring news: for most people saving into a workplace 401(k), the target-date fund the plan drops you into is a reasonable answer. Not optimal. Reasonable. And there is a specific, small set of conditions under which it stops being reasonable, which is what you actually need to know.

What a target-date fund actually is

A target-date fund (TDF) is a fund of funds. You pick — or your plan picks for you — a year roughly matching when you expect to retire: 2055, 2060, 2065. Inside that wrapper are usually four to six underlying index funds: US stocks, international stocks, US bonds, international bonds, sometimes a slice of TIPS or short-term bonds. The mix is called a glide path. Today, at age 32, your 2060 fund might be around 90% stocks / 10% bonds. By the time you're 60, that same fund will have quietly rebalanced itself to something like 55/45. By 70, closer to 40/60. You do nothing. The fund drifts more conservative as you age, because the closer you are to spending the money, the less you can afford a 40% drawdown.

That's the whole mechanic. It is not magic. It is a rebalancing schedule with a marketing name.

The reason this is a defensible default is that it solves the three problems most people fail at on their own: they don't diversify, they don't rebalance, and they panic-sell in downturns. A TDF diversifies by construction, rebalances automatically, and — because you never see the underlying holdings — gives you less to fiddle with when the market drops 22% in a quarter. Behavioral inertia, for once, working for you.

The cost of this convenience is a small fee layer. Vanguard's Target Retirement 2060 charges 0.08%. Fidelity's Freedom Index 2060 is 0.12%. Schwab's is 0.08%. On a $10,000 balance, that's $8 to $12 a year. Not the thing to lose sleep over.

When the default is genuinely fine

If your plan offers a target-date fund from Vanguard, Fidelity Freedom Index (note: Index, not the active Freedom Funds), Schwab, BlackRock LifePath Index, or State Street, and the expense ratio on the fund is under about 0.20%, and you are contributing regularly and not planning to touch the money for two-plus decades — you can stop reading and go do something else with your Saturday. You are not leaving meaningful money on the table by staying put. The gap between a well-constructed TDF and a hand-built three-fund portfolio over 30 years is, for most savers, in the low tens of basis points. Real, but not life-altering, and easily erased the first time you get spooked and sell in March 2020 or October 2022.

The people who tell you otherwise are usually selling you something: a robo-advisor, a newsletter, a "personalized" allocation service that charges 0.30% on top of the underlying funds to do essentially what the TDF already does.

The two red flags

There are exactly two situations where I would tell you to override the default.

Red flag one: the expense ratio is above 0.50%. This happens more than it should, especially in small-employer plans that use active TDFs from providers you've never heard of — American Funds, John Hancock, Principal, some of the insurance-company plans. If your TDF's expense ratio is 0.65%, that's $65 a year on a $10,000 balance, $650 a year once you hit $100,000, and by the time you're at $500,000 you're paying $3,250 annually for a rebalancing schedule you could replicate with three funds in an afternoon. Over a 35-year career, the difference between a 0.08% TDF and a 0.65% TDF on steady contributions is roughly six figures. That is a wedding, a down payment, a year of your life.

Go into your plan's fund menu. Look for the words "index," "institutional," or the ticker symbols VTSAX, VTIAX, VBTLX (or their institutional cousins). If your plan offers a total US stock index at 0.04% and a total bond index at 0.05%, you can build a two- or three-fund portfolio yourself and rebalance once a year on your birthday. That's the workaround.

Red flag two: the target date does not match your actual risk tolerance or timeline. The default is usually set by your birth year plus 65. But if you know — from experience, not from a quiz — that you sold in the last downturn, you are in a fund too aggressive for you regardless of your age. Pick a TDF five or ten years earlier than your "correct" one. A 2050 fund instead of 2060. You'll hold more bonds, ride out volatility better, and give up some expected return in exchange for actually staying in the market. That trade is almost always worth it. The best portfolio is the one you don't abandon.

Conversely, if you have a pension coming, a paid-off house you plan to sell, or other non-401(k) wealth that will cover retirement basics, you can afford to be more aggressive with the 401(k) than the default assumes. Pick a later date.

How to actually check

Log into your 401(k) portal. Find the fund you're in. Note two things: the ticker (five letters, usually ending in X) and the expense ratio, expressed as a percentage or in basis points. Google the ticker plus "expense ratio" if the portal is being coy.

If you decide you need to switch, most plans let you do it in about 90 seconds under "change investments" or "rebalance." You are not selling anything at a loss — 401(k) trades don't trigger taxes. If HR pushes back or the interface is confusing, this is the email:

Hi [name], I'd like to change my 401(k) investment election from [current TDF] to [new fund or allocation]. Can you point me to where I do this in the portal, or send me the form? Also, please confirm this will apply to both my existing balance and future contributions. Thanks.

That's it. No justification required. It's your money.

Open your 401(k) portal right now and find your expense ratio. If it starts with 0.0 or 0.1, close the tab. If it starts with anything higher, keep the tab open and look at what index funds your plan offers.

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